Tag Archives: childrenswear

A junior bespoke order

13 Mar

I recently got a request for a dress for a 4 year old girl. At first I was hesitant as I specialise in ladies wear and was not really familiar with the construction or sizing of children’s clothes. But I guess a challenge is the best way to learn something new. So after some research I started drafting out a basic children’s block from which I can adapt to make a dress.

Check out the tutorials section for a step by step guide on drafting a children’s block.

I chose a light champagne colour satin and a simple bodice with a full circle skirt. And added an off white lace peter pan collar for a bit of detail. To achieve more fullness in the skirt I gathered some netting and sewed it onto the lining at the waist.

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I’m pleased with the outcome and actually really enjoyed working on this piece. Perhaps this might inspire future children’s wear pieces.

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What do you think of the final look?

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Drafting a children’s basic bodice block (back)

12 Mar

This is a tutorial demonstrating how to draft out a basic childrens bodice block (back). Click here for the front bodice tutorial.

Square a line and mark A on the top right corner.

A-B= full length plus 1/16 inch.20130310_184701

A-C = across shoulder.20130310_184814

Square a line down from C.20130310_192556

B – D = centr back length.20130310_192652

Square a line in from D.20130310_192717

B-E = back arc. Add 1 inch for ages 3-6 and 1/2 for ages 7-14. 20130310_192856

Square a line up from E.20130310_193002

B-F = slope measurement, plus 1/8 inch.20130310_193135

F-G = shoulder length plus 1/4 inch ease. 20130310_193302

B-H = 2 1/2 inches.20130310_193328

H-I =  5/8 inch (1 inch for ages 8-14).20130310_193402

H-J = one half of H-I.20130310_193419

Square a line up from J.

J-K = side length minus 3/4 inch.20130310_193618

Draw dart legs.20130310_193640

E-L = 3/4 inch.20130310_193713

Square a short line down from L.

L-M = 1/8 inch.20130310_193859

Draw a slightly curved line from M to I.20130310_193924

M-N = side length.20130310_194023

F-O = 2 inches.20130310_194053

Square a short line in from O.

O-P = 1/2 inch.20130310_194137

With a french curve touching F, P, N draw arm hole curve.20130310_194305

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With a french curve touching D and G draw neckline curve.20130310_194350 20130310_194408

And now you have a back bodice!!20130310_194418

Your front and back bodices should look like this.20130310_194438

Drafting a children’s basic bodice block (front)

12 Mar

This tutorial will show you how to draft a basic bodice block for children. You can use this block as a basis for creating different designs.

Measurements needed:

1 – Shoulder slope: measure from shoulder-neck to waist centre (front and back).

2- Full length: measure from shoulder-neck to waist (front and back).

3- Centre length: measure from centre neckline to waist (front and back).

4- Across shoulder: Measure from shoulder to shoulder (front and back).

5- Bust or chest arc: measure front from side seam to side seam.

6- Waist arc: measure waist from side seam to side seam.

7- Back arc: measure across back from side seam to side seam.

8- Shoulder length: measure from shoulder-neck to shoulder.

9- Side length: measure from below arm to waist.

childrens bodice block measurements

Now lets get started!

Square a line and mark A on the top left corner.20130310_180857

20130310_180944

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A-B = Full length + 1/16 inch20130310_181159

20130310_181310

A-C = Across shoulder…now square a short line down from C20130310_181344

B-D = Centre front length minus 3/8 inch, now square a short line in from D20130310_181601

B-E = Bust or chest arc. Add 1 inch for sizes 3-6, or 1/2 inch for sizes 7-14. Now square a line up from E.20130310_182101

B-F = Slope measurement plus 1/8 inch.20130310_182227

20130310_182245

F-G = Shoulder length. 20130310_182410

Now square a line from the F-G line.20130310_182445

20130310_182502

B-H = 2 1/2 inches.20130310_182556

H-I = 3/4 inch ( 1  1/4 inches for sizes 7-14)20130310_182649

H-J = Half of H-I.20130310_182735

Square a line up from J.

K = Side length minus 3/4 inch.20130310_183015

Draw dart legs from K to H and K to I.20130310_183050

E-L = 3/4 inch.20130310_183120

Draw a slightly curved line from L to I.20130310_183214

L-M = Side length.20130310_183318

Square a short line in from M.20130310_183419

F-N = 2 inches.20130310_183456

N-O = 3/8 inch.20130310_183547

With a french curve touching D, G draw a curved line.20130310_183652

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With a french curve touching points F, O and M draw armhole curve. The curve line can blend with the square line before touching point M.20130310_183825

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And thats the front finished.20130310_183956

Check out the tutorial for the back bodice here.